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Welcome to the Eden FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions), where we do our best to answer your basic questions about your Eden equipment. This FAQ was last updated on Wednesday, March 8, 2006.
The FAQ is divided into the following parts:
This is an on-going project to which we are always adding new information. If you have a question we haven't answered here, you have two options:
Visit our on-line Forum. Do a search to see if your question has been answered in a previous discussion. If not, post your question in the appropriate folder. Normally, this will be the General folder.
Send us an email. While we can't promise to address every question submitted, we do consider each request carefully.
CAUTION:if you aren't a technician, it is best to leave modifications and repairs to others. DO NOT attempt to do anything to your amplifier or speaker cabinet that you aren't qualified to do. If your Eden product is still under the standard or extended warranty, all repairs and modifications must be made by the Factory or an Authorized Service Center. Otherwise, you may void your warranty.
About the Company
- Who is David Nordschow and why is he referred to as Chief Propellerhead and Master of All Things Technical?
- Who writes and maintains your FAQ? Can I trust what I read here?
- Is it true that Eden builds speakers for other bass manufacturers?
Q: Who is David Nordschow and why is he referred to as Chief Propellerhead and Master of All Things Technical?
A: David is the founder of Eden Electronics. Today, he runs the Eden division of US Music and is the head of our R&D department. He is the brain behind all of our designs.
Q: Who writes and maintains your FAQ? Can I trust what I read here?
A: The FAQ was written by our founder and head of Research & Development, David Nordschow, and our Special Projects Coordinator, Lane Baldwin, who also maintains it. We have done our utmost to provide you with accurate, trustworthy information to help you better understand how to get the most out of your Eden gear.
Q: Is it true that Eden builds speakers for other bass manufacturers?
A: Not anymore, but we did build the first generation of cabinets for SWR®, as well as providing OEM drivers for Ampeg (DL series), Mesa-Boogie, Gibson, Pierce and Randall. To tell if you have an Eden-built SWR® cabinet, look at the crossover plate on the back. If you see our logo, we built it. The drivers we built for the other companies are normally stamped on the back of the magnet. We continue to provide repair service on SWR® cabinets and OEM speakers we built.
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General Product Information
- I lost my owner's manual. Can I get another one?
- Can I get a schematic of my amplifier?
- How do I get service for my amplifier or cabinet?
- How do I get replacement parts for my Eden gear?
- How do I tell what year my amplifier was made?
- I'm going to be touring. How can I protect my gear?
Q: I lost my owner's manual. Can I get another one?
A: You can download any of our manuals from our web site. They're all in Adobe pdf. format, but you can get the Acrobat reader for free from Adobe.
Q: Can I get a schematic of my amplifier?
Yes. We are happy to send a schematic to your service center. Have them call Customer Service at 1-800-877-6863 to request a copy. However, if they are an authorized Eden Service Center, they should already have a copy of all of our schematics.
Q: How do I get service for my amplifier or cabinet?
A: You can send your gear to the factory and we'll be happy to fix it for you. Or you can take it to an Authorized Repair Center.
Q: How do I get replacement parts for my Eden gear?
A: Call Customer Service at 800-877-6863
Q: How do I tell what year my amplifier was made?
A: For USM Eden amplifiers, the first four digits of your serial number represent the year and month (in that order) of manufacture. For example, an amplifier with the serial number 0408A1234 was built in August, 2004. For pre-USM amps, they are simply coded with the date.
Q: I'm going to be touring. How can I protect my gear?
A: The best way to protect your equipment is to mount it in a road-ready case. Check your local music store or go on-line to find the one that's right for you. If you are going to be doing your own loading/unloading and want a more cost-effective option, you can purchase cabinet covers and amp bags direct from Eden.
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About Our Amplifiers
- How do I set up the tone controls on my amp?
- What does the Enhance knob do?
- The Enhance Control on my WT405 doesn't seem to work as well as the one on my WT800. Is it broken?
- My amplifier has two channels. How do I set it up for Bridge Mode?
- Only one amp is working in my WT800 (or WT500, WT600, WT1205). What's wrong?
- How do I set my amplifier for Bi-amp operation?
- What type of tube is in my amplifier? How often should I replace it? Does it matter if I use an Eden tube?
- The fan on my amp switches on and off all the time. Is this normal?
- My fan is really loud. What's wrong?
- I noticed the fan on my amplifier sucks air into the amp but my friend's amp blows air out. Who's fan is installed incorrectly?
- Is it true that I can get factory upgrades on my amplifier?
- How does your limiter work?
- I want to use the headphone jack for practicing. Can I turn the speakers off?
- What is the warranty on amplifier upgrades done by the factory?
- I live in Europe. Can I get upgrades over here?
- I'm getting a loud hum from my amp, even with the Master Volume set at Zero. What's wrong?
- What type of power amplifiers do you use in your systems?
- What maintenance should I perform on my amplifier? How often should I do it?
- Eden has always promoted a tube front end. Why do you now offer some models that don't have a tube? Have you changed your collective mind?
- Why do your new designs feature a different, simpler EQ control set?
- I've heard that older Metros have less power than newer ones. How can I tell which one I have?
Q: How do I set up the tone controls on my amp?
A: There is an explanation of this process in each of our amplifier Owner's Manuals. You can also read this article on the subject.
Q: What does the Enhance knob do?
A: Ah, the Magic Button. The Enhance circuitry boosts the lows, upper mids and highs while at the same time cutting the low mids. Many users find that dialing up a little Enhance is all they need to get a great sound out their head. We suggest starting with a little and slowly adding until you find what works for you. If you find you've gotten as high as 11:00 (on a clock face), return to the OFF position (fully counter-clockwise) and work with the tone controls. For more information on how to set up your amplifier to get a great sound, read this article.
Q: The Enhance Control on my WT405 doesn't seem to work as well as the one on my WT800. Is it broken?
Probably not. We found that 99.9% of our users didn't go beyond 12:00 (on a clock face) on our original Enhance Control. So we recalibrated it to provide increased fine tuning. On the WT405, WT390, WT330 and WT1205, setting the Enhance Control to fully clockwise is about the same as 12:00 on all other models.
Q: My amplifier has two channels. How do I set it up for Bridge Mode?
A: The following information is for the WT500, WT600, WT800, and WT1205 integrated amplifiers, and the WT1000, WT1250, and WT1550 power amplifiers:
Before powering up your amplifier, connect the speaker(s) to the Bridge output on the back of the amp. You should also make sure that the total speaker load is equal to or greater than the minimum impedance rating for your amplifier's Bridge Mode operation. DO NOT use the Left and Right amp outputs!
Set the Bridge switch on the front of the amp to the ON position. If your amp has a Bi-amp Mode switch, make sure it is turned OFF. NEVER engage the Bridge Mode and Bi-amp Mode switches at the same time.
IMPORTANT NOTE: NEVER CONNECT TWO AMPLIFIERS TO ONE CABINET!
Let us repeat this: NEVER connect two amplifiers, or two channels of the SAME amplifier, to one cabinet. This is a Very Bad Thing which will damage your amplifiers and possibly the enclosure. It may also result in an impressive pyrotechnical display - once.
Once you have connected the speakers and set the switches, check them all to make absolutely sure everything is set properly. Only then should you turn your amplifier on.
Only one amp is working in my WT800 (or WT500, WT600, WT1205). What's wrong?
OK, please understand we're not making fun of you, but before you calls us, check this one thing - Where is the Balance Control set? You'd be amazed at how many amps we get for repair that are fully functional - but the Balance Control is set fully clockwise or counter-clockwise. Make sure the Balance Control is set at 12:00. If one amp still doesn't work, check all cords. If it still doesn't work, your unit probably needs to be seen by a service technician.
Q: How do I set my amplifier for Bi-amp operation?
A: The following information is for the WT600 and WT800 integrated amplifiers:
For bi-amping, you will need two speaker cabinets, one for the low end and a second for high end. Connect the cabinets to the appropriate amplifier outputs on the back of your amp. Engage the Bi-amp Mode switch. Make sure the Bridge Mode switch is in the OFF position. NEVER engage the Bridge Mode and Bi-amp Mode switches at the same time.
Once you have connected the speakers and set the switches, check them all to make absolutely sure everything is set properly. Only then should you turn your amplifier on.
When the Bi-amp Mode is engaged, the Balance knob controls the balance between the high and low outputs. In addition, the Crossover Frequency Control becomes active, and can be set to taste. Use these two controls to dial in the sound you're looking for.
Q: What type of tube is in my amplifier? How often should I replace it? Does it matter if I use an Eden tube?
We use a 7025 that's hand-selected and tested by our factory team to ensure operation within a tight specification. You can also use a 12AX7. However, you should be aware that, if you use an Eden replacement tube, your amp will sound exactly the same as when it left the factory. Other brands may sound significantly different. Depending on your taste, this may be a good or bad thing. Personally, we think our tube sounds best for the great majority of players.
It is difficult to say how often you should replace your tube. It all depends on how often you use your amp, and how hard you drive it. While some people prefer to replace their tube yearly, many users have gotten as many as seven years from a single tube. We suggest replacing it every two to three years as a general rule. Please note that, if you're amplifier undergoes heavy road transportation, this will require that you change the tube more often as it will be affected by being bounced around a lot.
Q: The fan on my amp switches on and off all the time. Is this normal?
A: Yes. The fan is controlled by a thermostat that tells it start up if the temperature gets too high. Once the amp has cooled off a bit, the thermostat turns the fan off. This protects your amplifier from overheating.
Q: My fan is really loud. What's wrong?
A: Chances are you have an older unit. Simply removing the fan and reversing the air flow will reduce the noise by 10-15 db.
Q: I noticed the fan on my amplifier sucks air into the amp but my friend's amp blows air out. Who's fan is installed incorrectly?
A: Probably neither one. Our original designs had the fan blowing air in. We subsequently found that sucking air out of the amp provides about 10% improved cooling and reduce noise, so we changed the design. You can change the direction of your fan by having a qualified technician reverse it.
Is it true that I can get factory upgrades on my amplifier?
Yes. Check this page for full information on the upgrades currently available.
Q: How does your limiter work?
A: Our limiters are designed to kick in just before clipping of your amplifier. This protects your speaker from any distortion that clipping would create.
Q: I want to use the headphone jack for practicing. Can I turn the speakers off?
A: Yes. We've designed our amplifiers for just such an operation to allow you to practice without disturbing your neighbors. Either disconnect the speakers or, on some models, you can engage the Speaker Mute button.
Q: What is the warranty on amplifier upgrades done by the factory?
A: If your equipment is no longer covered under the original warranty, we warrant all repairs and upgrades for 90 days. You can also purchase an extended warranty at the time of repair or upgrade. For further information on our extended warranties, click here.
Q: I live in Europe. Can I get upgrades over here?
A: No. Unfortunately, upgrades are only available at the factory due to quality control concerns.
Q: I'm getting a hum from my amp, even with the Master Volume set at 0. What's wrong?
A: In many cases, this is not a problem with the amp. However - and this is important - if you're experiencing a very loud hum, possibly in conjunction with speaker motion, this is a Very Bad Thing. In some very rare instances, a combination of power supply &or amplifier faults could cause an unusual level of DC voltage to be present at the outputs. Speakers do not like DC voltage. Immediately disconnect your speakers from the amplifier and have a technician check for DC voltage present at the output.
If it is a low level hum, go through this check list to determine the actual cause of your problem.
1. Disconnect your bass. If the hum goes away, it's either your cord or your bass.
NOTE: In some rare cases where the input jack has been damaged, such as by someone tripping over your cable on-stage, the hum may be louder when the bass is not connected to the amp. Check this by plugging your cable back into the amplifier. Then, take the other quarter-inch connector and touch it's tip to the barrel of the jack plugged into the front of your amplifier. If the hum goes away, the jack is probably damaged. Have it replaced by a qualified technician.
2. Disconnect all signal-level devices. If the hum goes away, you either have a ground loop issue or one of your effects is causing the problem.
3. Plug the DI in again. If the hum comes back, lift the ground using the switch on the back of the amp.
4. Check the power source you're using. Often the electrical outlets are installed incorrectly, causing hum problems. Also, the power itself could be "dirty". Try running the amp through a power conditioner.
Q: What type of power amplifiers do you use in your systems?
A: The Eden World tour uses Bipolar transistor AB-class amplifiers. We are currently using toroidial amplifiers in most of our designs, but we also use an IE type in some of our newer designs.
The WT405, 550, 330 and new Metros (DC210XLT) all feature a very special new class of IE transformers that are equal to the toroidial amps in quality and output. They fit the small space better than the circular toroids. All other Eden amps use the toroids (WT400, 500, 600, 800, 1000, 1250, 1550, 1205 and VT300B).
The Nemesis line features an FET transistor AB class amplifiers
Q: What maintenance should I perform on my amplifier? How often should I do it?
A: How often you should perform maintenance on your amplifier depends on how much it is used. In general, once a year is enough. Here's a list of things to do:
- Clean all contact points (Inputs and Outputs) with either Isopropyl Alcohol or a commercial cleaner/lubricant, such as LPS-1.
- Check that all jacks are tight, that the nuts haven't loosened over time. CAUTION: Do not over-tighten the nuts. Just make sure they're snug.
- Clean the fan and all ventilation slots. Make sure there is nothing obstructing the airflow.
Q: Eden has always promoted a tube front end. Why do you now offer some models that don't have a tube? Have you changed your collective mind?
A: While David has very strong opinions on the advantages of a tube front end, as do many of our users, not everyone feels the same way. Some users prefer a solid state front end, while others couldn't care less either way as long as the amp sounds great. So, in order to provide more bassists with an amp that suits their taste and needs, we've designed a new front end featuring the Golden Ear chip. This chip was originally designed for use in high-end recording consoles, such as the Neve and Harris units. While far more expensive than other chips, we've found that the additional warmth it provides is unequaled, and that it is well worth the extra cost.
We still think having a tube front end is an asset. If you agree, we still offer our original design. If you don't, the new design is the one for you. The best way to decide, as always, is to audition both types and let your ears decide.
Q: Why do your new designs feature a different, simpler EQ control set?
A: This was another new design created in response to feedback from users. There are many who really like a simpler control set. In fact, many of our endorsers tell us that they almost never need the EQ section (beyond the Enhance control) at all. (One even said he wanted to superglue the EQ knobs in place!) Others tell us that they occasionally tweak the Mids at certain frequencies. We used this information to create a simpler EQ section that still addresses the needs of most users. However, if you like having more flexibility, we will continue to offer our original EQ control set. Try them both and see which one best serves your needs.
Q: I've heard that older Metros have less power than newer ones. How can I tell which one I have?
The original Metro design featured a toroidial transformer (looks like a doughnut) and was rated at 240W RMS @ 8 Ohms, 400W RMS @ 4 Ohms and 600W RMS @ 2 Ohms. The newer design, which was implemented circa March, 2003, features a special Eden-designed IE transformer (square) that puts out 300W RMS @ 8 Ohms, 550W RMS @ 4 Ohms and 750W RMS @ 2 Ohms. The easiest way to tell which you have is to look at the build date. If it's 2002 or earlier, you have the older model. If it's 2004 or later, you have the newer one. If your build dates is in 2003, look at the fuse holder. If it's marked 115/230, it's the old version. If it's marked FUSE, it's the new one.
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About Our Speakers
- Who makes the speakers you use in your cabinets?
- What are the differences between the various series of speaker cabinets you offer?
- I've heard conflicting things about breaking in a new speaker. What's the real deal?
- Is it safe to use a guitar cable to connect my cabinet and amplifier?
- I'm worried about damaging my speakers. How can I avoid that?
- How do I tell if I've got a blown driver?
- I sometimes see a light blinking on and off in my cabinet? What's that about?
- How do I tell if I have a blown tweeter?
- I replaced one of the speakers in my cabinet and now it sounds very thin and weak. What did I do wrong?
- What is the impedance rating for your cabinets?
- How do I tell the impedance of my cabinet?
- I love your cabinets, but would prefer to not run the high-frequency driver. Can I shut it off?
- Your specs say that some of your 10-based cabinets have lower frequency response than the 15 and 18 cabs. If that's true, why even offer the larger speakers?
- How do I change the impedance of my cabinet?
- How can I clean the carpet covering on my cabinet?
- I want to store my cabinet for an extended period of time. What do I need to know?
Q: Who makes the speakers you use in your cabinets?
A: We do! We are proud of the fact that we are the only bass amplifier company to design and manufacture its own speakers. This allows us to get exactly what we need in order to provide you with the finest sound available.
Q: What are the differences between the various series of speaker cabinets you offer?
A: Here's the basic rundown on our different cabinet series:
- T - denotes a cabinet with a tweeter. This was our first series of cabinets, and featured a rear port.
- XLT - this is our "standard" series. This stands for eXtra Low with Tweeter. These cabinets feature front slotted ports. They offer extended low range and have a characteristic push in the low-mids which allows the bass to cut through better.
- XL - stands for eXtra Low. These cabinets have no tweeter. They work well in bi-amp set-ups. Also, users who want a traditional deep sound without the extended high end a tweeter offers often prefer these cabinets.
- XST - This is our newest design and features even deeper bottom than the XLT series. Also, the midrange has been smoothed. These cabinets work well for slap, synth or pedal bass and keyboards. XST stands for eXtra Smooth with Tweeter.
- CX - These cabinets were designed to work with our CXC combos, but many players use them with our World Tour heads as well. They feature a coaxial design that offers a very smooth, transparent transition from the tweeter to the woofer. Many users tell us they're very close in sound to the XST series.
- NSP - The Nemesis speaker cabinets are a bit warmer, or more "organic" than the David series cabinets. The mids are not quite as aggressive.
Q: I've heard conflicting things about breaking in a new speaker. What's the real deal?
Any speaker should be broken in before applying high power to it. This will help seat the voice coil properly. This is no different than breaking in an engine before putting it under serious stress.
You should play through the system at low to medium power for approximately ten hours. This is the initial break in period. You can do this by playing a CD through your system, if desired. It will take up to another 40 hours to completely break in your speakers, but after the initial break in of ten hours, you can begin to increase volume.
Q: Is it safe to use a guitar cable to connect my cabinet and amplifier?
A: Absolutely NOT! Never use anything except a speaker cable. We recommend you use a cable made with 14-guage wire or better. (The lower the number, the thicker the wire.) For our high-power amps and cabinets, use 12-guage or better.
Q: I'm worried about damaging my speakers. How can I avoid that?
Well, for starters, you can ask your roadie to stop spilling his beer on it. Beyond that, the best thing you can do is to make sure your speakers are well matched to your amplifier. In a perfect world, we'd all use rigs that could address our volume requirements while operating in the middle of their power range.
Q: How do I tell if I've got a blown driver?
A: Sonically, a blown driver can cause distortion or can make the cabinet ( low end )sound very weak and thin. You can also check visually for creases or tears in the speaker cone.
Q: I sometimes see a light blinking on and off in my cabinet? What's that about?
This is the tweeter limiter becoming fully engaged. We use a calibrated and modified aircraft light element as the limiter. This bulb actually goes through three distinct phases of operation. Initially, it acts as a soft-knee compressor. At higher levels it acts as a limiter. Finally it acts as a fuse which will blow to protect the tweeter from damage.
When you see that light bulb at full brilliance, this means you're sending approximately 70 to 100 watts RMS to the tweeter - above 4kHz. This means you're probably clipping the amplifier heavily or using an excessive amount of high-frequency boost. If this light is constantly blinking, we suggest you either back off the high-frequency boost or decrease output slightly.
For more on this subject, read this article.
Q: How do I tell if I have a blown tweeter?
A: There will be a lack of high frequency detail in your sound. However, check the limiter bulb first; in most cases that will be the problem.
Q: I replaced one of the speakers in my cabinet and now it sounds very thin and weak. What did I do wrong?
A: You may have reversed the wires. Switch the two wires and test the cabinet. Chances are this will fix your problem.
Q: What is the impedance rating for your cabinets?
A: Our cabinets are rated 8 or 4 ohms, depending on the model. For complete specs, see the Products page for your particular cabinet.
Q: How do I tell the impedance of my cabinet?
A: Look on the crossover plate on the back of the cabinet. You will see either 4 Ohms or 8 Ohms. That is the rating for your cabinet.
Q: I love your cabinets, but would prefer to not run the high-frequency driver. Can I shut it off?
A: Shutting the tweeter off is OK but under some extreme conditions could possibly do some damage to the L pad over an extended period of time. Normally this is not an issue, but you should be aware of it nonetheless. If you can still get the sound you want, it may be better to set the crossover control so that horn is getting just a touch of signal. If you really do not want the tweeter to work at all, you can disable the crossover by cutting the lead of the first capacitor. This ensures the horn is completely out of the mix and is easily fixed if you ever want to use the horn in the future.
Q: Your specs say that some of your 10-based cabinets have lower frequency response than the 15 and 18 cabs. If that's true, why even offer the larger speakers?
A: Each speaker size has its own unique characteristics. Some players prefer the sound of 12s, 15s, even 18s. Even though we have our own opinion on what makes a great speaker cabinet, we prefer to leave the choice of speaker size to the player.
Q: How do I change the impedance of my cabinet?
A: In order to change the impedance of a cabinet, you will need to recone or replace the speakers. The crossover network and the tweeter will be fine for either impedance. Before moving forward with this, however, you may want to investigate selling your current cab to help finance a new one. Many users discover this is actually a more cost-effective solution. If you do decide to sell your current cabinet, you can post a message to that effect on our on-line forum in the EDEN CLASSIFIEDS folder.
Q: How can I clean the carpet covering on my cabinet?
A: A standard lint roller (masking tape style) works very well. If it's seriously covered with animal hair or dust, you may want to vacuum it first. If there is dirt ground into the carpet covering, you can use a commercial carpet cleaner, either spray or foam. Be certain to cover the speakers and crossover beforehand to protect these components.
Q: I want to store my cabinet for an extended period of time. What do I need to know?
Our cabinets are able to handle extremes in temperatures quite well, so there's no real need to be concerned. Just make sure that you let the speakers return to room temperature before using them. It's quite a shock to come out of freezing temperatures; you wouldn't want to go to full speed before warming up and neither do your speakers.
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Technical Information
- What does Bridge Mono mean?
- What is a compressor and what does it do?
- My current amp isn't loud enough. Should I add more speakers, more power, or both?
- I don't understand some of the technical discussions on your forum. How can I learn more?
Q: What does Bridge Mono mean?
A: Bridging is the act of using the two amplifiers to act as one larger amplifier in order to drive a single speaker or combination of speakers. When in bridge mode, each amplifier will see half the load impedance. For example, if driving a single 8-ohm D410XLT with our World Tour 800 (our most popular set-up by the way), each amplifier will see a 4-ohm load.
Q: What is a compressor and what does it do?
Basically, a compressor is a form of AGC (Automatic Gain Control) circuit. As a signal goes through it, the compressor adjusts the rate of level change of the signal. This change is measured in a ratio, from as little as 2:1, which is a very minor change, to as much as 100 to one, which will act as a "brick wall" limiter that won't allow any increase in level. For most bassists, a ratio of 2:1 to 4:1 is the sweet spot that will level the signal without being objectionable.
Q: My current amp isn't loud enough. Should I add more speakers, more power, or both?
It depends on what you're currently using and it's hard to give a definitive answer without knowing something about your current rig. However, in general, you will normally get a bigger return on investment by getting more speakers if you're amp can drive the total load. For instance, if you're currently using our WT550 amplifier with a single D-210XLT cabinet, adding another D-210XLT will give you a greater increase in volume than trading up to the WT800 and continuing to use a single cabinet.
Q: I don't understand some of the technical discussions on your forum. How can I learn more?
A: The best way to learn more is to keep reading the forum and to read the technical articles on our web site. If there is a specific question you'd like answered, just post your question in the forum. Alternatively, you are welcome to send us an email asking us to write an article on your question, but we can't guarantee we'll write an article on every subject requested.
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